Fırat Neziroğlu Presents:
ANATOLIAN.WEAVİNG
MAP
Geographically Indicated Fabrics of Turkiye
“Guided by the ancient wisdom of Turkey’s unique lands…”
Wool
Peace Silk
Linen
Cotton
Afyon Keçesi
Ankara Sof Kuması
Bayburt Ehramı
Karacakılavuz Dimi Dokuması
Sedefli Battaniye
Siirt Battaniyesi
Şal Şepik Kumaşı
Antep Kutnu
Barış Ipegi
Vahşi İpek
Ayancık Keteni
Elpek Bezi
Çarşıbaşı Keşanı
Kandıra Bezi
Merzifon Dokuması
Adana Bezi ( Kamlo Kumaşı)
Beypazarı Burgusu
Buldan Bezi
Burdur Dokuması
Bodrum Begonvil Bezi
Iznik Derbent Dokuması
Lefke Bezi
Mardin Bezi
Mersin Okuntu Kumaşı
Nevruz Bezi
Rize Bezi (Feretiko)
Şile Bezi
Tamzara Dokuması
Tire Beledi Dokuması
Vezirköprü Susuz Bezi
Yassıçal Çulha Bezi
Yesil Üzümlü Dastarı
Up and Re-cycled
Durusu Bezi
ANATOLIAN
WEAVING
MAP
ANATOLIAN LOOMS AND FABRICS
DESIGNS BY FIRAT NEZIROĞLU
From Tradition to the Future with the Anatolian Textile Network
Fırat Neziroğlu is a distinguished designer with profound knowledge and expertise in the weaving techniques of Anatolia’s geographically indicated fabrics.
After completing his undergraduate studies, he embarked on extensive field research by visiting Turkey’s leading weaving regions. During this journey, he worked side by side with master weavers, apprenticing at their looms. At the same time, he studied traditional fabrics that had either been forgotten or were on the verge of extinction, making significant contributions to the revival of this textile heritage.
By reinterpreting these traditional techniques in line with the needs of today’s textile industry, Neziroğlu creates designs that are both functional and contemporary. In doing so, he establishes a strong and sustainable bridge between traditional craftsmanship and modern industry.
INNOVATIONS IN ANATOLIAN LOOMS AND FABRICS
Fırat Neziroğlu is the first designer to experiment with transforming Anatolia’s traditional two-pedal looms into four-pedal systems. Despite strong resistance from academic circles, he has continued to pursue this groundbreaking work. Traditionally, the two-pedal system allows only plain weave (tabby) and its derivatives. Anatolian fabrics most commonly feature plain weave, weft-faced twill, warp-faced twill, and Panama weave. Patterns are usually created through striped or check effects using colored yarns. However, since the two-pedal system limits weave movements and pattern complexity, decorative motifs have historically been added using the Cicim technique, borrowed from the kilim tradition. In later phases of modernization, the Ajur technique—produced by twisting warp threads in groups during weaving—was also occasionally employed.
By converting this system into a four-pedal mechanism, Neziroğlu discovered that many region-specific fabrics could be woven in a double-layered structure, reinforced with lining warp and weft yarns, without compromising their authenticity. This innovation is a concrete outcome of his advanced expertise in fabric structures and weaving techniques.
In collaboration with the Ministry of Industry, he worked on Şile Bezi, a geographically indicated fabric renowned for its fine and semi-transparent texture. Previous thickening attempts had involved heavier yarns, which made the fabric resemble Buldan Bezi instead. Neziroğlu, however, became the first to install four-pedal looms in Şile. He designed a double-layered structure by weaving two separate Şile fabrics simultaneously and joining them at specific points. The result was a self-lined, double-layered fabric that preserved the original character of Şile cloth while achieving the desired density.
When researching Üzümlü Dastarı, another geographically indicated fabric from Fethiye, Neziroğlu visited the region and consulted its most skilled weavers. He observed that the looms were built with unusually short treadles, forcing weavers to bend their knees unnecessarily. To solve this issue, he ergonomically redesigned the seating area of the looms. He also introduced the four-pedal system to Fethiye, conducting experimental studies that resulted in a new type of weave. This fabric was later named “FN Dastar” by the Fethiye Municipality.
In Piraziz, Giresun, around 1,000 Karayaka sheep are shorn annually. Because of the coarse quality of their wool, the region had long relied on imported New Zealand wool, producing felt with a 70% New Zealand / 30% Karayaka blend. After learning this, Neziroğlu traveled to Giresun and produced felts made entirely from Karayaka wool, which he then used to design shoes and boots.
Additionally, in his role as a consultant on Wearable Technologies at Bilişim Vadisi, he contributed to research demonstrating that wool helps protect the human body from the harmful effects of electrical pollution in urban environments. Building on these scientific findings, Neziroğlu continues to design innovative fabric structures that merge tradition with contemporary needs.
ANATOLIAN WEAVING MAP AND ANATOLIAN TEXTILE NETWORK
For more than 25 years, through his travels across different regions of Anatolia, Fırat Neziroğlu has developed new looms and weaving structures based on the techniques he learned from local weavers throughout Turkey. With these innovations, he has reinterpreted Turkish fabrics in contemporary forms and enriched the Anatolian Weaving Map.
At the same time, he has created a network connecting weaving villages across Turkey’s diverse cities, establishing a bond between Anatolia’s various geographical regions—woven together, thread by thread. For example, under Neziroğlu’s supervision, geographically indicated fabrics woven by local women in Şile and Fethiye are transformed into garments by women in Nevruz Village, Çanakkale.
FN Projects
Kargı Bezi
The cotton fabric produced in Çorum, woven since the time of the Hittites, whitened with the ammonia found in the dung of large livestock, and handwoven using the Fırat Neziroglu Technique.
Miss SUPRANATIONAL / POLAND
Fırat Neziroglu, inspired by the patterns carved into the mountains for Puduhepa, the first queen of peace in history, who sealed the Kadesh Peace Treaty ending the known first war, has incorporated his personal technique and the 'kargı' fabric into the Turkish National Costume.
Begonvil Bezi
Designed by Fırat Neziroglu, drawing inspiration from the colors of the Begonvil flower, two different cotton fabrics have begun to be woven on our looms in Bodrum. Tailored to suit the geography and climate of Bodrum, with a texture that responds to perspiration sensitivity, they exhibit hues reminiscent of Bodrum Begonvilles.
These fabrics, woven in two different textures, are made of cotton weft and cotton warp. The flexible texture, created without the use of Lycra, is designed considering the twist differences in cotton yarns. Fırat Neziroğlu has designed the knitting and color combinations based on Begonvil leaves
Adana Bezi
The distinctive feature of Adana Fabric is the absence of synthetic dyes in its production.
Cotton emerges from the soil in white and various shades of brown. Colored cottons, other than white, are removed, allowing only top-quality white cotton to enter production.
In the production of Adana Cloth, naturally grown colored cotton threads are utilized.
Şile Bezi
The salt content of Şile's sea, along with the fine sands on Şile's shores, guided our ancestors, who filled pots with seawater and boiled them to weave delicate fabrics. They poured a cup of flour into the boiling seawater to prepare a broth. Into this broth, they dipped the threads, strengthening them with flour before weaving them into fine fabrics on looms. These woven fabrics were then washed in the sea at Şile and dried on the fine Şile sands. The fine sands became embedded in Şile fabrics, but it was the threads that had been mixed with flour, met with the sea, and washed, that became Şile Fabric.
You know how deeply connected I am to the culture, tradition, and Anatolia. I feel that we are also connected to each other. It makes me very happy.
I set up 100 looms in Şile and provided weaving training to 200 Şile women.
The women of Şile wove and sewed.
I continue to support women's employment in Şile.
We wove the most beautiful fabrics just like our grandmothers did.
I designed it with respect for Anatolia.
Yeşil Üzümlü Dastarı
In Yeşil Üzümlü, the local people weave Dastar Fabric with their hands and eyes on weaving looms locally known as "DÜVEN". Various embroideries are used in weaving Dastar, which is made using three types of threads: warp, weft, and pattern.
Dastar is produced from wool, cotton, linen, and silk. The silk used in Dastar production is obtained from the silkworms raised by the local people. The Dastar produced from silk is called "Bürümcük Dastar". Dastars woven with specific patterns are named as "sucuk yanışlı" (sausage-style), "çomak yanışlı" (stick-style), "deveboynu yanışlı" (camel-neck-style), and "semer yanışlı" (saddle-style). Dastars woven without embroidery are called "yoz dastar". Another factor that adds value to Dastar is the coloring of threads obtained from plants grown in the region.
Fethiye Municipality, in collaboration with Likya Women's Cooperative and Fırat Neziroğlu, is reweaving Geographical Indication marked Dastar fabric considering contemporary needs and traditional weaving methods.
A new Traditional Collection has been created by combining traditional Anatolian garment patterns with Fırat Neziroğlu's modern perspective.
Kandıra Bezi
Kandıra Cloth is one of the highly special products produced in the district of Kandıra in Kocaeli, Turkey. It is a fabric reflecting a weaving tradition dating back to the Roman era. It is known colloquially as 'unbreakable bush' or 'bush tearer', referring to its durability. Apart from its strength, it is also visually stunning.
Kandıra Cloth is one of the fading treasures of Kandıra, revitalized and made suitable for everyday use through contemporary approaches by Fırat Neziroğlu.
Piraziz Köyü Keçesi
In the village of Piraziz in Giresun, there are approximately 1000 Karayaka sheep. I learned that their wool is sheared every year, and due to its thickness, wool is exported from New Zealand. Seventy percent of the wool is soft wool from New Zealand, while thirty percent comes from Karayaka sheep and is used for felting.
Based on this information, I visited Giresun. I worked with the women of Piraziz Village to create felt layers from pure Karayaka sheep wool. From these felt layers, we designed and produced shoes and boots.
Additionally, in my role as an advisor for Wearable Technologies at the Bilişim Vadisi (Information Valley), I conducted tests and found that wool helps mitigate the negative effects of urban electricity on the human body.
Beyond just designing patterns and colors, I am researching the benefits of natural fabric fibers for both the environment and humans. Using the insights of science, I continue to design new fabric and felt constructions.
Sof Kumaşı
As the Wearable Technologies Advisor at Bilişim Vadisi (Information Valley) and the Coordinator of Textile Technologies and Design at Bahçeşehir University's Creative Industries Center, I set out to study Ankara goats, an endemic species unique to Ankara.
The Ankara goats, a significant treasure of Anatolian lands, were nearly extinct. Following soil analysis, suitable plants for the goats' nutrition were cultivated, and shepherds were trained for their care. Today, we have 225,000 Ankara Goats.
I strive to integrate the ancient knowledge inherited from Anatolian lands into daily life, bringing together women artisans from every corner of Anatolia and designing to add value to their efforts.
Nevruz Bezi
Nevruz Village Women's Cooperative, born and raised in a village in Çanakkale Yenice, extends their warm efforts to different corners of Turkey.
Under the leadership of their mentor, Ayşe Pirhasoğlu Akbaş, they present the most significant example to Turkey's Women's Cooperatives with the vision they have created. The management consists solely of local women.
From the first day I visited Nevruz Village, we aimed to weave a special fabric for Nevruz. With 4 looms set up in the village, I designed a fabric suitable for the climate and geography of Nevruz Village. I named this fabric "Nevruz Cloth." Years later, it will be remembered as the traditional fabric of Nevruz.
Durusu Bezi
The yarns for the fabrics that women will weave on the looms were made of 100% recycled yarns. The uniforms of the 6000 employees working at IGA, which change every year, were collected and sent to the recycling facility in Uşak to be recycled into yarn.
After Fırat Neziroğlu's fabric designs were woven with these recycled yarns, they were put up for sale.
Women from the villages of Durusu and Akpınar were employed, allowing them to earn a living by weaving fabrics.
Mardin Bezi
The "Mardin Design and Innovation Center" project, with the Mardin Artuklu Municipality as the applicant and Mardin Artuklu University as the project partner, was brought to life thanks to the "Guided Project Support" of the Mardin Development Agency. An approximately 200-year-old monumental building located in the historic site of Mardin was restored and transformed into a design and innovation center. Within this center, design and innovation workshops were established to facilitate production in four areas: weaving, glass, felt, and jewelry.
Under the leadership of Fırat Neziroğlu, weaving looms were set up in the weaving area, enabling participants with no prior experience in weaving to engage in collaborative work. Participants who completed the weaving training are now progressing towards becoming skilled weavers themselves.
Barış İpeği
Peace silk is one of the most beautiful statements made to the world. In traditional silk production, silkworms are thrown into boiling pots when they enter their cocoons and are killed. However, in our silk thread production, we do not kill the silkworms.
Additionally, through our Wild Peace Silk project, we respect the natural life of silkworms. We wait for the silkworms to emerge from their cocoons in their natural habitats, and only then do we collect the cocoons left on the trees to produce the silk thread.
